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[WikingTnT]

Hola - dette temaet har sikkert vært diskutert her før men ser at det er mange som slavisk følger innkjørings-prosedyrene som står i de ulike manualer med ikke over så og så mye rpm de første 100 km etc etc...

Her er hva "vår" sjefsingeniør i Benelliforum mener er den riktige innkjøringmåten for å sikre en god og sterk motor :

Find yourself a long straight free of constabulary, then pick third (or maybe fourth) gear and flatten it, making it pull as hard as it can without bogging down, up to say 3/4 red line, then let it coast back to where you started. Do this half a dozen times.
Then, for good measure, find yourself a steep long hill and do the same, a couple of times.

What you don't want to do with any new engine with new bearings is sustain high revs, and possibly starve those bearings of lubrication. Ten or twenty seconds is fine. Five minutes is not.

What you DO want to do is put as much pressure on those new piston rings as you can possibly manage. This will force them into the cylinder walls and bed themselves in to make the best seal possible. Do that and you'll end up with the most powerful and most economical engine possible. If you baby it, like the manual suggests, you'll end up with a mediocre engine with leaky piston rings.

Your choice, but do it in the first 100 kms. By 500 you will have missed your chance.

Hva mener folket ?

[kjellv]

Helt ærlig... jeg synes han har et par gode poeng
...men jeg vet ikke om jeg ville turt å kjøre inn en ny sykkel på den måten sånn uten videre..

[Bjerknez]

Nå er det vel ikke BARE motoren som skal kjøres inn. Resten av sykkelen er også helt ny og den er delvis montert her hjemme hos travle forhandlere. Å finne ut at det er en skrue løs, eller at slangen til bremsekalipperen er lekk er ikke noe man vil når man presser den maks på en langstrekke.

Andre får mene hva dem vil. Men jeg velger å bruke anbefalingene fra produsent. Så får andre dra sin flett nye sykkel til rødgrensen hvis dem føler for det. I just don't care.

[gsx750_80]

Hola - dette temaet har sikkert vært diskutert her før men ser at det er mange som slavisk følger innkjørings-prosedyrene som står i de ulike manualer med ikke over så og så mye rpm de første 100 km etc etc...

Her er hva "vår" sjefsingeniør i Benelliforum mener er den riktige innkjøringmåten for å sikre en god og sterk motor :

Find yourself a long straight free of constabulary, then pick third (or maybe fourth) gear and flatten it, making it pull as hard as it can without bogging down, up to say 3/4 red line, then let it coast back to where you started. Do this half a dozen times.
Then, for good measure, find yourself a steep long hill and do the same, a couple of times.

What you don't want to do with any new engine with new bearings is sustain high revs, and possibly starve those bearings of lubrication. Ten or twenty seconds is fine. Five minutes is not.

What you DO want to do is put as much pressure on those new piston rings as you can possibly manage. This will force them into the cylinder walls and bed themselves in to make the best seal possible. Do that and you'll end up with the most powerful and most economical engine possible. If you baby it, like the manual suggests, you'll end up with a mediocre engine with leaky piston rings.

Your choice, but do it in the first 100 kms. By 500 you will have missed your chance.

Hva mener folket ?

Ikke ukjente Kevin Cameron, om temaet:

Break-In: It's new, it's pristine, how long do you have to baby it?
By Kevin Cameron

Break-in is the final finishing operation in manufacturing an engine - and you, the owner of a new bike, perform it. At the factory, the bike builder hones the cylinder walls to a fine finish, grinds cams and tappets to accurate, smooth profiles, and makes con-rod journals to high standards of roundness and accuracy. But even with all this, metal surfaces remain microscopically rough, consisting of tiny peaks and valleys. When you start a new engine, these surfaces must slide over each other; wherever the peaks stick up higher than the local oil film thickness, metal hits metal, welds momentarily from the intense local pressure, and then tears away. The oil sweeps a residue of particles away, carrying them to sump and filter. Some metal is simply pushed into shape, protected by oil additives; it deforms physically rather than being welded and torn.

Throughout the engine, this process works, quickly at first then more slowly as break-in proceeds. Once the high spots are knocked or pushed down, the roughness of the surfaces no longer sticks above the oil films. Piston rings have filed themselves into a fine fit to their cylinders. Bearings spin without metal-to-metal contact on full oil films. Break-in is complete.

This process can have three possible outcomes: (1) If the break-in begins at high RPM and heavy throttle, the process may generate more heat and metal debris than the system can handle. Then, the result is destruction of contact surfaces in some parts of the engine. (2) If the break-in begins at a lower energy level and builds up gradually to higher rev's and throttle, the washing action of the oil will keep up with the generation of wear particles, and the surfaces will bed into each other in such a way that the oil film can carry the load. (3) The third possibility is that break-in will fail - usually as a result of such light-duty operation that parts are not loaded together forcefully enough to bed into one another. Rings glaze and fail to seal. The engine never delivers full power. Fortunately, this is rare where production machines are concerned.

Factory break-in procedures are designed to steer the middle course - not so vigorous as to damage surfaces, not so timid as to have no results at all. Generally, recommended break-in consists of operation at a variety of moderate speeds, alternating with no-load coasting. The idea behind this is that firm part-throttle operation for a period puts a load on bearings and other parts, forcing their surfaces together, so they can polish each other to a fine fit. No-throttle coasting removes much of the load, allowing the oil system to flush away the wear particles. Gradually increasing the load (higher RPM and throttle) allows the bedding-in process to build up over time, rather than applying a possibly damaging load right at first.

Rob Muzzy of Kawasaki notes: "It won't break-in until you really run it hard", noting that, "With today's thin, low friction rings, you can't get the parts to reach each other without a good load." He says his team breaks in its race engines in much the same manner as for the street: 30 to 60 minutes of moderate operation on the dyno, just in case there are some really rough areas, followed by several pulls (that is, hard acceleration across the powerband). He says that only by the third pull does the engine begin to show its real power.

For a street machine owner, this dyno break-in translates to a period of moderate operation (Muzzy mentions 500 miles) followed by some hard acceleration. Sustained, high-speed operation is not a good idea because it provides no wash time at low load, during which the oil system can flush away any wear particles.

Once the break-in mileage has elapsed, the oil and filter are changed to remove the metal-loaded oil, and the (possibly) heavily loaded filter.

Break-in lore and myths. You often hear something like this: "Break it in fast and it will be fast, break it in slow and it will be slow." There is some truth here because break-in has to apply enough load to force the parts into mutual machining action. If you timidly try to break it in at very low speed and almost zero throttle, you may never force the piston rings to shave themselves into good contact with the cylinder walls. That will result in a poor seal - and poor performance. But the "break in it fast" part of the saying seems to imply that the faster you push during break-in, the faster your engine will be as a result. Not so. If you push too hard too soon, the parts will score and scuff each other because the heat generated will be enough to destroy the oil film locally. A scuffed ring doesn't seal.

Many engine builders agree that you should not try to break-in an engine on synthetic oil. If the oil film is too good, it will support even parts with extensive surface roughness. Only a small amount of local bedding-in may occur on the piston rings, resulting in a poor fit (glazing) that improves only very slowly over time. Manufacturers of synthetic oil are almost unanimous in their insistence that this is not so and that break-in is normal with their excellent products. But too many engineers and tuners have seen break-in either fail or take too long on synthetics for this to be the entire truth. Muzzy says that his team breaks-in engines on mineral oil and will run the fresh engine the entire first day at the track on the break-in oil, before draining and replacing it with racing synthetic.

Synthetic oils are frequently chosen for racing use because low viscosities can be used that will cut friction losses by a small amount. This may be worth the trouble on the racetrack, but for street use, the choice between mineral oil and synthetic is yours. Street engines run well with mineral or synthetic oil of the recommended viscosity.

Your important decision will be to follow a reasonable break-in procedure. Treat your engine with respect for its first 500 to 1000 miles, and it'll repay you by delivering its best possible performance.

© Copyright SPORTBIKE 1995 ANNUAL
1995

[Bjerknez]

Helt ærlig... jeg synes han har et par gode poeng
...men jeg vet ikke om jeg ville turt å kjøre inn en ny sykkel på den måten sånn uten videre..

Kan vel kanskje være greit å faktisk bli vant til sykkelen også før man torpederer den med det man har...

[WikingTnT]

Nå er det vel ikke BARE motoren som skal kjøres inn. Resten av sykkelen er også helt ny og den er delvis montert her hjemme hos travle forhandlere. Å finne ut at det er en skrue løs, eller at slangen til bremsekalipperen er lekk er ikke noe man vil når man presser den maks på en langstrekke.

Andre får mene hva dem vil. Men jeg velger å bruke anbefalingene fra produsent. Så får andre dra sin flett nye sykkel til rødgrensen hvis dem føler for det. I just don't care.

Han sier jo ikke at motoren skal presses opp mot rødgrensen men til ca 3/4 , og en skrue kan vel like gjerne løsne i 150 i sjettegir pr manual som 3/4 av rødmerke i 3-4 gir ? Den teorien er i beste fall syltynn

[WikingTnT]

@gsx750-80

Mye av de samme poengene i din quote , bla :

Rob Muzzy of Kawasaki notes: "It won't break-in until you really run it hard", noting that, "With today's thin, low friction rings, you can't get the parts to reach each other without a good load." He says his team breaks in its race engines in much the same manner as for the street: 30 to 60 minutes of moderate operation on the dyno, just in case there are some really rough areas, followed by several pulls (that is, hard acceleration across the powerband). He says that only by the third pull does the engine begin to show its real power.

Har faktisk trua på denne metoden , høres logisk ut.

[Bjerknez]

Dere får argumentere dere frem til en løsning. Orker ikke en gang å diskutere det. Jeg har gitt svar på hvordan jeg gjør det så får andre gjøre det på sin måte

[WikingTnT]

Helt ærlig... jeg synes han har et par gode poeng
...men jeg vet ikke om jeg ville turt å kjøre inn en ny sykkel på den måten sånn uten videre..

Kan vel kanskje være greit å faktisk bli vant til sykkelen også før man torpederer den med det man har...

Igjen - prøv å les hva de foreslår først da

[WikingTnT]

Litt mer konkret fra vår Mr Benelli i Australia :

If you ride it "ordinary" you won't bed the rings in fully. You can only bed them in by putting them under pressure, and that means high load and wide open throttle.
You don't have to do it for long though. 10-20 kms is probably enough. Once they are bedded in the job is done, and you can go back to riding "ordinary".

I'll give you an example of the benefits of bedding the rings in properly.
My brother and I bought identical TR650 Terra's a few years ago. He rode his home and ran it in as per the book.
I took mine home in a trailer and bedded the rings in properly a few days later on a quiet back road. (It had been to 160 kph several times before it had 50 km on the clock)
On a recent trip from Canberra to Brisbane and back, mine consistently used less fuel, and would pull away from his in a straight out drag.

[ZZR-Erling]

Kjør variert, ikke fullgass, ikke la den dra tungt, kjør den lett..opp i turtall...og motorbrems MYE!

[ATWindsor]

Hvorfor skulle samtlige produsenter med vilje gi råd som de vet er feil mtp hvordan motoren skal kjøres inn?

[Hansien]

Hvorfor skulle samtlige produsenter med vilje gi råd som de vet er feil mtp hvordan motoren skal kjøres inn?

Fordi produsenter gjerne må ta høyde for mannen i gata, noe et racing team (og entusiaster) ikke trenger. Derfor kommer gjerne innkjøringsmåten til å inneholde en del kompromiss for at produsenten skal ha minst problemer mtp garantier og lignende i senere tid.

Jeg ville ikke kalle produsenten sin måte feil, men ikke optimal.

[KiMedic]

Jeg fulgte Yamaha sin innkjøring for MT07. Ikke over 5500rpm første 1000km. Så ble det tatt service og oljeskift. Deretter ikke over 6500rpm til jeg har kjørt 1600km.

Får jeg en medioker motor jeg nå da eller?

[Snikendeugle]

Jeg "vrengte nakken" på sykkelen siden dag 1. No regrets. Går som ei klokke!
Mye motorbrems, mye varierende turtall og nedgiringer.