Forgassere til XJ750 Seca

[Svein]

Nå holder jeg på å gi opp.Har fortsatt min Seca med noen uvillige forgassere.Ved 2800-3500 omdr. på uansett gir så nøkker det og motoren går urent.Kjøpte en rekke fra en kondemnert sykkel,og det funket fint i ca 1år.
Nå har jeg samme problemet på denne rekka også!!
Originalrekka har vi totaloverhalt.Byttet dyser og rengjort,men samme problemet.
Denne rekka er sjekket flere ganger,men vi finner ikke feilen.
Rekka fra vraket hadde jeg av nå i uka,og den var moden for rensing.Funket bra de to første kmeterne,så var problemet der igjen.
Finnes ikke dritt i bensinen.Tanken er renset og forseglet innvendig så den er helt ren.
Er det mulig å finne helt nye forgassere som kan passe?
Nå skal jeg ta meg 14dg i Spania,men kom gjerne med tips her visst det er noen som har tips.

Det er også mulig jeg gir opp og selger den i deler til slutt.Sykkelen er totalrenovert med opplakking og pulverlakkert ramme.
Hjelp meg før jeg gjør noe dumt.

På forhånd takk!!

[Kjellrf]

På Kawan min med samme symptomene, var det pakninger i chokene som hadde tørket inn.

[omaas]

Nå holder jeg på å gi opp.Har fortsatt min Seca med noen uvillige forgassere.Ved 2800-3500 omdr. på uansett gir så nøkker det og motoren går urent.Kjøpte en rekke fra en kondemnert sykkel,og det funket fint i ca 1år.
Nå har jeg samme problemet på denne rekka også!!
Originalrekka har vi totaloverhalt.Byttet dyser og rengjort,men samme problemet.
Denne rekka er sjekket flere ganger,men vi finner ikke feilen.
Rekka fra vraket hadde jeg av nå i uka,og den var moden for rensing.Funket bra de to første kmeterne,så var problemet der igjen.
Finnes ikke dritt i bensinen.Tanken er renset og forseglet innvendig så den er helt ren.
Er det mulig å finne helt nye forgassere som kan passe?
Nå skal jeg ta meg 14dg i Spania,men kom gjerne med tips her visst det er noen som har tips.

Det er også mulig jeg gir opp og selger den i deler til slutt.Sykkelen er totalrenovert med opplakking og pulverlakkert ramme.
Hjelp meg før jeg gjør noe dumt.

På forhånd takk!!

Er du sikker på at det er forgasserne?
Min XJ900 begynte å gå urent runt 3000, sekket og justerte forgassere men det hjalp lite.

Skiftet coilene og sykkelen ble bra, den har nå gått ca 30000 km etter byttet og alt er OK.

[joo]

Skiftet coilene og sykkelen ble bra, den har nå gått ca 30000 km etter byttet og alt er OK.

Var borti noe sånt på seint 80-tall, og flere sa coilene ikke var de beste på noen Yamaha-modeller den gang. Dette var en XJ900, sikkert samme sakene?

[omaas]

Var borti noe sånt på seint 80-tall, og flere sa coilene ikke var de beste på noen Yamaha-modeller den gang. Dette var en XJ900, sikkert samme sakene?

Det er de samme coilene på alle xj750 - xj900 modellene fram til 1994.
Ja de hadde rykte på seg for å kunne gi problemer.

[taco]

Hadde ganske like symptomer på en Kawa 650. Forgassere ble sendt til full overhaling, men hjalp ikke.
Etter hvert fant vi årsaken: Ventilene var for trange og motoren fikk ikke luft nok.

Skal ikke påstå noe, men verdt å sjekke hvis det ikke er gjort.

[650spleisn]

Kjenner meg godt igjen i det du har erfart med Seca`en.
Jeg har slitt med min XJ650 i mange år. Den har orginalt gassere fra Hitachi. Tror at 750`en har akkurat de samme gasseren, men noe større bestykning.
Disse hersens Hitachiene har 1 stor svakhet.
Det er at de slites i opplagringen til spjeldspindlene og kan suge falsk luft. Det kan hjelpe litt hvis du bytter ut tetningene (vanskelig å få tak på), men slarken vil fortsatt bidra til at spjeldene "vandrer rundt" i spjeldhuset og gi varierende åpning, noe som igjen gjør det helt umulig å synkronisere gasserrekken.
Som en følge av dette så slites også spjeldene å spjeldhuset mot hverandre slik at det blir åpning på feil plasser.
Dette gjør synkronisering helt umulig.
Hadde alle 4 gasserene hatt nøyaktig samme slitasje så kunne man kanskje klart å få til en duganes synkronisering men i praksis så er det vel utopi å tro på det.
Jeg trodde lenge at "litt variable luftmengder" mellom de 4 gasserene ikke ville resultere i store problemer, men der tok jeg grundig feil.
Virkemåten til disse CV-gasserene er jo basert på en hårfin balansegang mellom flere forskjellige trykk, og dette er noe som er veldig dynamisk over hele gasserens arbeidsområdet.
Skal ikke prøve å forklare noe jeg ikke forstår selv. Vet bare at det er masse fysikklover ute å går på dette området.

Jeg har også kjøpt 2-3 brukte forgasserrekker via bl.a. e.bay i håp om å komme over et brukbart eksemplar.
Oppdaget bare at alle har de samme feilene i mindre eller større grad.
Etter flere år med prøving, feiling, testing, synkronisering, mange timer med søking etter nyproduserte deler på nett (lite å finne), en dose med gråt og alkohol, så innså jeg at tiden var inne for å tenke nytt.

Vekk med Hitachi og på med Mikuni.
Fikk tak på ei Mikuni-rekke i samme størrelse som jeg tror kommer fra en XJ600.
Det er nå 3-4 år siden jeg gjorde en letter ombygging får å få til dette.
Husker ikke lenger størrelse på dyser etc som funket best.
Avstanden mellom gasserene var helt lik om jeg husker riktig. Det var i alle fall lett å tre de innpå gummiene.
Litt arbeide måtte gjøres for å få gassvaieren til å passe.
Chokevaieren kuttet jeg ut. Satte bare på en knott nede på gasserene ala moped løsning.
Synkroniseringen gikk som en drøm.
Etter dette så gikk motoren rent over hele registeret.
Jeg har nok ikke kommet helt i mål med optimaliseringen da sykkelen nesten ikke har blitt kjørt de siste par årene.
Den orginale luftfilterboxen er fjernet og ovale KN-filtere ble satt på. I tillegg så står det på et Motad 4-1 anlegg.
Alle disse forandringene gjør jo at man må justere opp alt fra bunnen av, å det kan være en lang prosess.

Det må også sies at disse XJ-motorene med YICS-topper vanligvis har en litt røff motorgange så helt silkemyk vil den nok aldri bli.

Lykke til videre. Ikke selg Seca`en. Moro at noen holder disse syklene i live.
XJ-ene er en del av min mc-histore så det er alltid moro å møte de på veien.

[650spleisn]

Et lite tillegg til mitt innlegg.
Jeg fokuserte kun på problemer med gasserene men vil ikke utelukke at det kan være andre årsaker eller en kombinasjon.
Coiler er nevnt over.
Selv om de har rette måleverdiene så kan de fuske under drift.
Plugghetter med motstand kan også være en kilde til problemer.
Pluggkablene likeså.
Dårlige loddepunkter i tenningsmodulen vet jeg har vært et tema i noen forum.
For liten ventilklaring på en eller flere av innsugsventilene kan gi lekkasje ved varm motor og sabotere forholdet i den eller de gasserene som blir berørt.
Mye å ta av her.
Tror nok at du har vært innom det meste av dette selv ettersom du har holdt på en stund.
Stå på

[omaas]

Det er Mikuni forgassere på xj900.

[Svein]

Dette virker lovende.Skal bytte ut coilene først.Har tenkt på dem om de kunne være problemet.Har veldig lyst på ei rekke med Mikuni gassere.
Skal ta dette når jeg er tilbake.Tusen takk alle sammen for raske tilbakemeldinger.

Svein

[Svein]

Har nå bestillt nye coiler fra Wemoto.Håper dem ligger i postkassa når jeg er tilbake fra ferie.

[Erman]

Jeg har en ekstra rekke med Hitachi 32mm forgassere - dog med større dyser enn vanlig (tror de kommer fra en maskin som hadde åpne eksosrør).
Gi beskjed om du trenger de.

Secaen min kom med originale gassere, og som tro 28 år gammel traver, så hadde gummitetningene mellom forgasserne blitt så slitt at de slapp inn luft. Prøvde å tette med silikon, men det gjorde saken bare verre. Bestilte like så godt nye fra http://www.xj4ever.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Bestilte faktisk ganske mye fra de... og andre steder...

Du kan sjekke coilene med multimeter, Her er oppskriften:

There are two ignition coils for the four cylinders. What this means is that each cylinder gets twice as many sparks as it needs, one during the compression stroke for ignition, and one during the exhaust stroke. The only reason for the extra spark is to simplify the ignition system and use two coils instead of four. This is possible because the one and four cylinders and the two and three cylinders move in synchrony (with different valve timing). This is important to remember if you ever connect a tach to the bike, 2000 rpm will read like 4000 rpm.
The coils are pretty reliable if the connections are good and there are no physical problems, like cracks, in the ignition wires or in the plastic case around the coils (which can cause high voltage leaks).
You can check the secondary resistance of each coil by removing the plug-caps (they screw off) and measuring the resistance between the ends of the two plug wires. The specification is 11k Ohms.
(The manuals show measuring the secondary resistance with the plug caps on. This has been determined to be incorrect by the readers of the XJ Mailing list. Yes, Yamaha, Haynes, and Clymer all got it wrong.)
A low resistance measurement indicates an internal short in the coil, and results in diminished spark. A high resistance measurement also diminishes spark somewhat. An open circuit between the plug wires means a wire is broken, either a plug wire or an internal coil wire.
(A coil may still operate with an open circuit secondary. The voltage spike jumps the broken wire (another spark), in addition to sparking the two plugs. In some cases, its possible to ride for a number of years with an internal broken wire!)
The plug-caps have been the source of problems for some XJ owners. They are resistor caps (designed to reduce radio interference.) Yamaha replacements are a bit expensive, but aftermarket ones from NGK are available and are said to work well. Typically, all four caps are replaced with NGK 5k Ohm caps.
The coils have been called "weak" on occasion by members of the xj-owners group. To be clear, the coils aren't really weak, they just don't operate well if the supply voltage is low. (After market coils may help, but only slightly: They draw more current and will create a bigger voltage drop, see headlight section for an explanation.) Replacing the coils will not solve the underlying problem.
Since both the coil and the TCI are responsible for making a good spark, reducing the voltage available to them amplifies any spark problem. Reducing the voltage to the coil reduces the spark directly, and reducing the voltage to the TCI hurts the spark further. This is why having a good voltage supply and ground to the ignition (meaning good, clean, uncorroded connectors) and a strong battery is essential to keeping the bike in good working order. (And so critical in these bikes.)

Har du gjennomført synkronisering av forgasserne for tomgang (med blokkeringsverktøy)? Blokkeringsvektøyet er viktig for å kutte ut gassfordeling innad i sylinderne (YICS-systemet). Du kan låne begge deler av meg hvis du er i nærheten av Oslo.
Hvis du har sjekket ventilklarering og tatt synkronisering, så kan problemer i rekkevidden 2800-3500 rpm skyldes følgende:
1, bensinnivå i forgasserne. Må justeres til samme høyde som pakningen til flottørkammeret slik de sitter på sykkelen. Dvs. at de må være vinklet ca 5 grader fremover. Hele prosedyren er ganske omfattende og man må helst ta av forgasserne og sette de på et hjemmelagd stativ. Deretter sette på gjennomsiktige bensinrør og måle-bøye-måle etc.
2, gummipakningene mellom forgasserrekkene slipper gjennom luft
3, gummimanifoldene mellom plenumkammer og forgassere slipper gjennom luft
4, manifoldene mellom forgassere og motor slipper gjennom luft. Det skal være et sett med pakninger mellom disse og motor
5, forgasser 1, 2, og 4 mangler gummipropp som blokkerer vakumtappen (forbeholdt synkroniseringsverktøy)
6, blandingsskruen(e) er ut av synk. Skal være 2,5 omdreininger fra bunn som fabrikkstandard
7, gummihetten under lokket på forgasserne er utett eller sprekt
8, mulig at choken din henger. Det gjorde min etter første gangs rengjøring. Hadde strammet til for mye, slik at fjærene ikke klarte å dra de inn

Her er hele oppskriften på rengjøring av forgasserne:

Step 1:
Pull Gas Tank, Plastic’s and Beauty Pieces. Get ready to remove Carbs. Get Carbs off bike. Undo clamps on both Airbox<->Carb boots and Carbs<–>Intake Manifolds. Don't mess with the Allen Heads on Intake Manifolds. It’s best to leave Manifolds alone. Push rubber AirBox Boots back into Airbox. Note grooves in the Boots that fit Airbox outlet air ports. Observe Locating Tab. This method makes removing Carbs easier. Undo cables and cable-end holders. Clear the way to remove Carbs out from the left side. Separate Carbs from Intake Manifolds. Use wood so as not to damage any exterior. Pry #-1 and #-4 Carbs back and free all Carbs from their Manifolds. Draw Carbs straight back into the room you made by pushing-in rubber AirBox Boots into AirBox. Bring Carbs out the Left Side of the bike. Mark Carbs with an engraving pen, #1 (clutch side), to #4 (brake side). Dislocate Choke Bracket from Carb #3, Throttle Bracket from Carb #4, and Fuel Line Bracket from Carb #1

Step 2:
A large, rectangle bin with a mesh rack allows you to spray carb cleaner on them and have the cleaner and grime drip right off the carbs into the bin. Set the rack on a grate and spray-off and brush-off all dust, dirt and grime. Hit springs, adjustment screws, idle rod and sync screws so they will respond to tuning adjustments.

Step 3:
Muffin baking tins – 12-holed –forming four columns allows you to store each Carb’s component parts without mixing them up with others. NOTE: Do NOT mix parts when dismantling Carbs. Every Carb part should be stored together with other parts from that Carb.

Step 4:
Remove four Phillips screws holding Fuel Bowl <-> Carb Body and set them in the muffin tin. Soak in cleaner liquid
Remove Float Bowl. Spray cleaner half-way up. Set the bowl down to let Carb Cleaner work on the metering ports at the bottom.
The Float is suspended by a hinge. In the middle of the hinged part you'll see "Float Needle Attaching Tab". There will be a tiny wire across the tab. That's a spring that is attached to the Float Needle Valve. Hold Carbs up and get a close look at how Needle Valve attaches to that tab.
Between the two float sections are the two numbered Jets, and hidden from view by the large Main Jet is a long, multi-ported, Internal Emulsion Tube, which will be referred to as NOZZLE.
Below Float Needle Tab is Float Needle and Float Valve Assembly. Slide the hinge pin out; drop it in the Float Bowl and let it soak in cleaner. Carefully lift off Float, bringing Float Needle straight up and out. Take Float Needle and the Float itself and place them in the next empty bin. Being mindful that it is BRASS, use the appropriate socket or boxed-end wrench and remove Float Valve Assembly. Slight impact on the wrench will loosen the Valve Body allowing it to be turned out. Do NOT allow a Float Hinge Pillar to become damaged during cleaning processes .
Depending on Year and Model, Float Valve may be 1) Threaded, 2) O-ringed and just pushed-in, 3) Attached by a little forked holder bracket and a screw.
Upon removing Float Valve; examine the end that was inside Carb. On most Factory Valves, there is a little, tiny, "Beanie-looking" filter screen. The filter screen does snap off for removal. Only take it off if it's rusted-out or you plan to lose it. Otherwise, just shoot cleaner through the body to blow out the whole thing. Put Valve Body in bin with the Float and Needle.
On the high post is Main Jet. Wipe off the bottom of the large Main Jet. Read the engraved numbers on the bottom of Main Jet and write down what that number is in your Note Book. There is a copper washer that Main Jet holds in place. Remove the copper washer and store it with Main Jet, in the next bin up. If the storage bins on the muffin tin are fluid tight; spray Carb cleaner in it and let Jets soak in Carb Cleaner. The Lower Post consists of a smaller Jet than Main Jet. Wipe-off and record the number. Pull this Jet and let it soak in the same bin.
Near the frame rail, a very small diameter brass tube sticks up from the Carb Body. The Siphon Tube supplies fuel up to the Cold Start Enrichment Circuit at the top end. The tube has a very small fuel metering port at it’s open, bottom end which extends into the special well designed for it in the wall of Float Bowl. It's size and the relatively small volume of fuel within its supply well allows fuel to be drawn-up Siphon Tube with the relatively low vacuum drawn on it when starting the engine. Probe the opening on the tube and insure that the metering ports supplying fuel to the special well the tube extends into, on the Float Bowl, are clean and allow fuel to fill the Fuel Bowl’s well. This is the Cold Start Enrichment Circuit’s vital fuel supply. Clean everything until all surfaces are 100% and look Brand New
Before you begin work on the top side, take a picture of the 4-Hats, clips and hold-downs, and how all the linkage to the four Enrichment Valves are oriented.
Tech Note: Enrichment Linkage, Right to Left, as viewed from the TOP of the Carbs with the Enrichment Circuit linkages UP (Carbs oriented 1,2,3,4 as you look at them on the bench) The 4 Enrichment Circuit Pivot Arms TOP. ROD extending through the four PIVOTS with 4 FORKED, Valve-opening "fingers" BELOW the ROD, and attaches to the ROD with SET SCREWS, which fit into DETENTS drilled to keep the SET SCREWS from slipping

Orientation of Parts Right to Left:
#4 Fork with Set Screw
Small Nylon Bushing
Pivot Arm
Large Nylon Bushing
Cable Pull Bracket
#3 Fork with Set Screw
Pivot Arm
#2 Fork with Set Screw
Pivot Arm
#1 Fork with Set Screw
Pivot Arm

Mark for Identification: Center Punch a dot at the RIGHT end of the ROD, right in the middle of the flat spot at the very end. The center-punched "Dot" is to identify the RIGHT side of the ROD. This will save you a lot of time when putting the ROD back into place. Remove the 4 SET SCREWS attaching FORKS to ROD. Note the way that CABLE PULL ARM attaches to ROD as a reversed letter “J”. Photograph how this is attached for accurate reference. Remove SCREW attaching CABLE PULL ARM to ROD. Slide ROD to the LEFT. Collect and save, in order, all the parts which are attached to the ROD. Those setscrews can be replaced with aftermarket standard hardware.

Step 6:
With linkage for the Enrichment Valves removed, four Enrichment Valves are exposed, along with access to Pilot. Screws, just to the left of the Enrichment Valves. Enrichment Valves each have a rubber dust boot covering them.
Remove rubber dust boots, which are best cleaned with dish detergent, rinsed, dried, and soaked inside and out with Armor-All. After removing dust boots, remove Enrichment Valves in order. These parts are Brass and may be very difficult to "Get started" out.
Hold some torque on the wrench and whack the wrench with a hammer handle to supply impact to get these fittings moving out. The Brass housing comes out. Sometimes the complete Valve assembly will come out.
Orientation: The Enrichment Valve is a Brass cylinder with a tapered seat and a Pin-like protrusion on its business end. The upper section has a spring around the shaft of the valve stem, which pushes closed the valve when the valve is closed by the relaxing of the cable controlling the linkage. The stem has a "T" shaped top that is channeled to allow the forks to open and close the valve. The valve should move very smoothly within its cylinder. The Top Hat "T" should be square at the top of the shaft and not deformed or bent. If it is deformed or bent, great care must be exercised to straighten it. Roll the shaft on a flat surface and lightly tap in the "High side" to get the Top Hat squared-up atop the shaft.
With Enrichment Valves removed we move on to Carb Top Covers (Hats). Remove the four screws attaching the Hat to the Carb Body. If the screws are frozen, DO NOT try to muscle them out. The top of the screw will break-off and you'll need to do drilling and tapping to get the chunk out and cut new threads for a new fastener. Use a Hand impact tool if this is the case. Use ViceGrips on screws with ruined slots.
When four screws are withdrawn, the Hat comes free and a long spring pops. The spring is the Diaphragm Assembly return spring. Remove the spring and place it in your organizer tray. Exposed is the Diaphragm Assembly. Lift-out the edge of the rubber diaphragm from around the circumference of Carb Body. Note the locating channel and locating tab.
Carefully extract Diaphragm Assembly, taking GREAT CARE NOT to bend or otherwise damage the long NEEDLE VALVE at the bottom of the cylinder.
When this is done, you will se the Brass NOZZLE into which the MAIN JET was attached at the bottom. This can be removed by inverting the rack and gently tapping the Nozzle UP through the TOP of the Carb body. Nozzles: Solid brass cylinders. Multiple tiny AIR metering ports. Some NOZZLES are "Slotted and Keyed", others are simply "Press fitted". Some are loose enough to fall out the top without even touching them.
The NOZZLE is the POWER VALVE. Notice that there are 16 - 24 tiny metering ports drilled along the sides ... directly opposite from the ones on the other side. Hold the NOZZLE up to light. You must be able to see light through the ports near you coming through the ports on the opposite side. These very tiny metering ports can be clogged with dried-out gas that forms a hard varnish-like substance. SOAK the NOZZLES for 30-minutes, completely submerged in Carb cleaner before beginning to clean them with the correct fitting tool from the Welding Tip Cleaner set

Step 7: Pilot Screw removal and cleaning
There are three scenarios:
1. Factory Anti-tamper Plugs still in place
If you still have the infamous "Anti-tamper Plugs" in place, remove them. Your bike cannot be fine-tuned with those plugs preventing you from making a precision mixture adjustment of the Pilot Screw. To remove, chuck a very small Number Drill into a Dremel and go at that plug like a Dentist. The plug is about the width of a Dime or less. I touch the drill bit to the center of the plug very, very lightly. Once the tip of the drill penetrates through that thin plug, you need to be able to STOP further penetration. The danger is doing harm to the Pilot Screw top beneath the plug. The slot is of solid brass. Pilot Screw is right beneath that plug. Don't mess it up by touching the slotted top with the drill bit
To get the plugs out; screw a sheet metal screw, or a dry wall screw into the hole and continue your Practice of dentistry and extract it by pulling on the inserted screw with pliers, vice grips or a small "Slugging Handle". Wiggle and pull. The plug comes out and the Screw is visible. When you get the four plugs out, oil the four holes with WD-40, or some other very light machine oil
2. No Anti-tamper Plugs, Screw slots visible and good
3. No Anti-tamper Plugs, Screw slots visible and looking pretty shaky
The absolute number one rule, for performing work on Pilot Screws is: "Use the right tool". You NEED a screwdriver that fits the slot at the top of that Pilot Screw with absolute precision. Make one. The wings on the top of the slotted screw are very soft brass. Unless the tool fits with such precision as to apply turning force to the entire mass of the screw, the WINGS will move without the main body of the screw moving along with them. An ill-fitting tool will allow the wings to move "toward un-occupied space" without the body of the screw moving with them. They will bend. Any attempt to unbend them will break them right off the top. One way or another, the Pilot Screws need to come out. They may be a) pulled out, b) removed with some dexterity and effort, c) extracted using all available resources
Dab out the puddle of WD-40 with a Q-Tip leaving a trace in there to help the process. Using the proper tool, and with a Watchmaker's gentle touch, turn the screw IN. Yes; IN. In and down until the Pilot Screw "Bottoms-Out". As you do so, count the revolutions needed for the screw to be turned IN until it bottoms. Generally, this will be approximately two and one half [2-1/2] turns. If the adjustment is more or less, write down the measurement for using as your preliminary adjustment OUT when the screw is replaced after Carb Cleaning on all four carbs.
If you are less fortunate and find the plugs removed; but Pilot Screw slots are in good condition: Clean out the area above the top of the screw. Get the space meticulously clean. Use a generous amount of Carb Cleaner, and the point of a jumbo safety pin, that has had its tip heated and bent to be used as a surgical instrument. The entire space above the top of the screw needs to be meticulously cleaned with special attention to carefully scraping clean the ULTRA-fine-threads above the screw. Once cleaned-out; flush out with Carb Cleaner, re-oil and attempt to turn the screw IN and DOWN as stated above. Using great care, attempt to get the screw to move. If it does move, attempt to bottom-out the screw as previously mentioned. If it does NOT move, it is possible that someone could have left the screw already bottomed-out and not adjusted properly. If you are cleaning the set because the bike sat un-used for some time, runs like crap, stalls a great deal, was hard to start or would not idle ... it is possible that the screw IS bottomed-out and is the source of all that difficulty. If you suspect this is the case by comparing the height of the screw top to the others ... then, attempt to bring the screw OUT.
If that screw doesn't move either way under gentle pressure, STOP. Don't "Chance-it." Get-out the Propane Torch. Clean out the area of all the WD-40 with Carb Cleaner. When the Carb Cleaner evaporates apply several drops of OLIVE OIL to the space above the screw top. Olive Oil is a vegetable product; not a petroleum based product. It will not ignite as readily as a petroleum based lubricant, and will boil-away that which is not brass or aluminum while also acting as a penetrating lubricant. Heat the surrounding aluminum area well. Sop-up the Olive Oil and make another attempt to move the screw. When it moves, bring it UP into the oiled and heated area where it should begin to turn much easier allowing you to get it out of there. Forget about bottoming-it-out.

Step 8: Pilot Screws and Enrichment Valve Components and Removal
Clean-Tuning and re-assembly preparations. We need to extract all four Pilot Jet Mixture Screws with internal components. We also need to extract all four Enrichment Valve Assemblys and springs. With all Jets and internal parts removed; clean and blow out the fuel and air passages before re-assembling the rack and tuning the Carbs to the very edge of their fine-tuning capability.

Step 9: Removing the Pilot Mixture Screws and Component Parts
Because the Pilot Screw has such a very fine thread pitch they can be difficult (If not impossible) to move. Cleanliness is the key to their removal. The cleaner the area above their screw slots is; the easier they can be loosened and removed. Use a precision tool. Keep the threads lubed-up with light machine oil. Handle with care. The hidden spring, washer and O-ring in the Pilot Screw housing are the tiniest parts on the bike. Take every precaution NOT to lose anything. Take the appropriate measures to work CLEAN. Spreading some old bed sheet or linen beneath the work is a good idea. Each Pilot Screw must be withdrawn complete with its associated parts within the small chamber beneath the threaded head and stem of the Pilot Screw. Prepare for handling 4 (four), SMALL, easily lost, precision parts:
1. The Pilot Screw and Stem with its pinpoint Precision Metering Tip. (One piece)
2. Pilot Screw Tension Adjustment Holding Spring. May come out surrounding the stem on the screw. Might need to be lifted out if it remains in the Carb body when the screw is lifted-out. Visually check bottom of spring for tiny flat washer
3. Very small Flat Washer. Might be stuck to the lower end of the Spring or remain in the bottom of the housing needing to be extracted
4. A very tiny O-ring. About the size of this “o”. The flat washer and O-ring are usually found at the bottom of the housing. They might be lifted out when the spring is withdrawn. “Special Tool” for fishing-out the tiny Flat Washer and the O-ring from the bottom of the Pilot Screw housing is just a long “Safety-pin” that is heated and angled slightly

Step 10: Enrichment Valve Removal
Enrichment Valves come in a couple of different flavors. There are Solid Brass Valves with a tapered seat end and a further narrow pointed shaft-pin seat; and there are some with a “Barrel-style Plunger” having a rubber seat attached to the base of it’s Barreled end (also shaft-pin ended). Remove the rubber dust cover. Clean, then let soak in Armor-All
Loosen and unscrew the Hex-topped brass body. Remove the entire Valve, spring and brass body together. Separate and clean individual components before re-assembly. Once Pilot Screws and Enrichment Valves are removed from the Carb Bodies, there are but a few “Air Jets” remaining in the Intake Port and beneath a screwed-on cover plate, where the rubber diaphragm seats; some models have an “Air Jet Cover” which needs to be removed to INSPECT these Jets. Others have had the cover OMITTED at the Factory. Many others have had the cover OMITTED during Carb cleaning and maintenance.
NOTE: There is a threaded opening for the special screw, which serves to attach the Air Jet cover, if so equipped. If you are going to withdraw all the Air Jets for Air Passage cleaning, SCRIBE an "X" next to this threaded hole so it will not be confused as an Air Jet Passage.
The Air Jets are all slotted and threaded for easy removal. But, since the openings in the center of the air jets are large enough to permit the Carb cleaner spray tip to enter and shoot the air passages clean, you may leave the Air Jets in place and spray and blow out the passages without removing the Air Jets. If you MUST remove all Air Jets, for dipping or sonic cleaning the Carb bodies, ID each Jet for PROPER REPLACEMENT. Particularly the two Air Jets in the TOP cavity beneath the Diaphram Assembly. Certain Workshop Manuals show these Air Jets replaced incorrectly. Following the illustration and placement shown in the HAYNES Manual will lead to a situation which REVERSES these two Jets, making adjusting the correct air mixtures impossible without actually having the right sized air jet in the right place.

[Svein]

Nå har jeg byttet til nye Coiler.Det ble som ventet ikke noe bedre.
Nå vurderer jeg å finne gassere til en Maxim X 700 for å gå over til Mikuni.

Japanmotor har et sett,men 5 laken er litt drøyt synest jeg..?
Må prøve å lete litt videre.Skal prøve å ta noen mål på en Maxim X for å være sikker på at dem passer.

Så hvis det er noen som har eller vet av gassere så ta kontakt.

[Svein]

Da har æ bestillt gassere fra USA. Har ståyy på en Maxim X 700 som har Mikuni.

[Erman]

Fikk du vite hva oppsettet på sykkelen var?
Hvis eier hadde tatt av original luftboks og satt på koniske filtre, er det sannsynlig at vedkommende også har satt inn større jets i forgasserne.